A Day in Napa Part 2: Did We Just Visit 6 Wineries?

Before you start reading this, have you read “Part 1” yet? If not, I highly recommend that you go back to the home page, find “A Day in Napa Part 1”, click it, and read it first because you will find joy in the chronological order. If you have read “Part 1”, then you know that I left you hanging with our bliss of tasting the top-quality wines at Venge Vineyards as our first stop of the Honeymoon winery adventure on the first day in Napa. From there, we didn’t think it could get much better (and honestly, in terms of wine, that may have ended up being true) but we set off in our rental Prius heading south down the Silverado Trail with a loaded itinerary of wine tastings ahead of us. I spent several hours (…days?) emailing with winery reps and calculating distances on my GPS to create an efficient route that maximized tasting time and minimized travel backtracking – this is the key reason we were able to ultimately visit six vineyards between 10am and 5pm.

Stop #2 was a short 10 minute drive down the road: Duckhorn Vineyards. We had made a 12pm appointment with their Trade Relations Manager, but after calling ahead that we would be arriving a bit ahead of schedule we were welcomed with friendly hospitality. They, however, had more than one parking spot and the place was already packed. I had visited Duckhorn back in 2006 with my wine-loving parents, so I was looking forward to retracing some steps from my early days of becoming a wine nerd. I remembered having such a private, personal experience in their tasting room and being fascinated by the whole process of a wine tasting appointment. Their label is now widely available all over the country in contrast to some of our more off-the-beaten-path appointments later in the trip. I do think it’s very important while visiting Napa, though, that you create an experience which takes to you both the big names and the small producers so you can enjoy a variety of settings.

Pulling off the road at Duckhorn Vineyards

We were promptly seated on their outdoor patio – sunshine! – and greeted by our tasting guide and reserved table setting. The wine tasting cards were strategically placed in order so that you felt as if you were about to embark on the Yellow Brick Road of wine happiness. We took in the gorgeous courtyard scenery and noshed on the breadsticks (classic wine tasting nourishment) while our guide set up or glasses for the tasting flight which included the 2011 Stout Vineyard Merlot, 2011 Atlas Peak Merlot, 2010 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2011 Patzimaro Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. I preferred the smoked caramel and cedar tones of the Atlas Peak Merlot as my favorite of the line-up, but it was evident upon first sip that we took a step back in terms of quality and complexity compared to our first stop at Venge. This discovery led us into an interesting discussion about production size/strategy of a growing vineyard and the potential decline in complexity of a wine to appeal to a larger audience. Not to say that this always happens, but all of the tastings in this flight lacked the complexity and bold layers of those earlier in the day which perhaps lends itself to a wider palate appeal for mass production. But, after a few words about this observation with our guide, he signaled for us to wait one more moment because “he had something we might like”….

Outdoor reserved seating for a tasting appointment at Duckhorn

Boom, behold the concept of “the bonus pour”: The act of bringing a wine to the table which is not listed on the tasting notes nor expected by your guests. It acts as a way to showcase a reserve or special label to someone who may be interested in trying the higher end price-range of the winery’s collection. In our case, it was first the 2011 Goldeneye Pinot Noir which meets the needs of the bright, fruity Pinot Noir people (like husband) and also those of the earthy, dirty Pinot Noir folks (like me). It was quite impressive compared to the first wines and took lead as our favorite of the bunch….until yet another bonus pour came our way: 2010 The Discussion, a $135 estate grown red blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Barrel-aged for 26 months in 100% French Oak barrels, this wine is blended each vintage using the very best barrels of wine from the finest blocks in the vineyard. It was filled with rich flavors of licorice, dark berries, and plum leading to a finish of silky tannins and cherry spices. It may officially be called The Discussion, but I considered it Duckhorn’s “Redemption” for what seemed at first to be a middle-of-the-road tasting profile. We ended up leaving empty-handed, but if you’re looking for a beautiful, quaint setting and a chance to experience a mainstream label, Duckhorn is worth a consideration for your itinerary.

The second of two "bonus pours" during our seated tasting 

Slightly sunned and feeling intrigued by the contrast between the first two stops, we drove onward to Stop #3: Freemark Abbey. Just two minutes around the corner from Duckhorn located in the Howell Mountain AVA known for standout Cabernet Sauvignons, we arrived for our 1pm appointment with Tasting Room Supervisor, Clint, to redeem a complimentary friend-of-the-industry cabernet comparative tasting. This was a last-minute addition to our itinerary after my dad had texted a photo of their wine label to me while he was on a work trip in Vegas attached to the caption “you need to try this”...so, obviously, I made an appointment immediately because I know better than to miss out on one of dad’s wine suggestions.

They set us up at the rounded tasting bar as we prepared our palates and noses for the unique opportunity to taste four different Cabernet Sauvignons back-to-back. I live for this type of nerdy wine experience because you get to geek-out on all the nuances that may not be apparent if you taste the wines on different occasions. I lifted the first glass and gave my nose plenty of time to fill with the aromas of dark cherry and plum from the 2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, their flagship (and the one my dad most likely consumed at the restaurant in Vegas).  It was layered with slight clove-like spice and a hint of green pepper on the palate for an overall pretty solid balance. Smooth, easy-drinking, yet complex with a long finish, it's clear why it's their most widely distributed wine. Onto the 2010 “Bootleg” Cabernet Sauvignon (which got it's namesake from mistakenly being blended with a bit of Syrah in 2002), I got a smoky, caramel tone on the palate along with dusty cedar and sweet oak spice on the nose which likely are expressed from the addition of Cabernet Franc and Merlot.



If I had to pick favorites, I’d say the two anchors of the tasting flight would have to flip a coin to fight it out for my vote. The 2010 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, made from 100% single vineyard fruit, showcased bold tannins and a full fruit mouth feel while the 2010 Cabernet Boshé, made from coveted high-quality fruit that used to be sourced out to a neighboring producer, presented with a HUGE fruit nose and an interesting pop of green olive flavor on a deep, fruitful finish. It was apparent upon completing this tasting that we were in the care of true Cabernet Sauvignon producers, and I would highly recommend selecting this tasting flight during a visit if you’re into this grape and what it has to offer.

So at this point, three vineyards deep in Napa, we thought: FOOD. I had proactively prepared for this feeling of hunger to strike and had secured a pitstop in downtown St. Helena on our route. We grabbed delicious made-to-order sandwiches at Giugni W F & Son Grocery, a cash-only local deli on Main Street, to take for a picnic at Stop #4: Louis M. Martini.

Quick stop at a cash-only deli on Main Street in St. Helena to grab sandwiches for a picnic

After emailing with their staff prior to our visit to make sure that they allowed us to bring our own picnic food onto their property (read: ALWAYS ask in advance, some places do not allow picnics), we posted up at a table in their outdoor courtyard and inhaled the fresh sandwiches as if we’d been exhausted from drinking wine. We did, however, enjoy pairing our picnic with the wines in their standard tasting: 2012 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 2011 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2011 Cellar No. 246 Meritage (81% Cab Sauv, 10% Merlot, 5% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot, 2% Cab Franc). Similar to Duckhorn, Louis is a big-time producer and widely available in retail stores across the country. They have smooth, full-flavored wines and are rooted in tradition of providing consistent quality to their consumers. My favorite was the the 2010 Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon - their version of the "bonus pour". For the mere awe of sitting in the courtyard of a well-known label, I suggest making a visit to Martini as a “large producer experience” in the Valley.

Standard tasting to compliment our outdoor picnic seating at Louis M. Martini

Adequately fueled after our picnic, we had just over an hour before our final tasting appointment of the day…and when in Napa, you use all extra time for wine tasting, right? Keeping with our plan of not backtracking on our route, we continued south to Stop #5: Caymus Vineyards. This is one of those labels that you drink with family during holidays and special occasions because it makes you feel fancy without extremely breaking the bank. It’s not a weeknight wine in our household, but I can count numerous family celebrations which were highlighted by a special bottle of Caymus on the dining table. The fun part about stopping at their tasting room is that you have the chance to try wines from their various labels under the Wagner Family of Wines. We didn’t have an appointment, but instead cozied up to the busy tasting counter – this place gets packed on weekends, so I’d suggest to plan accordingly and try to stop earlier in the day to avoid any major crowds at the walk-up tasting bar. Our standard tasting option included the Mer Soleil 2013 Reserve Chardonnay, the Belle Glos 2013 Las Alturas Pinot Noir, the Emmolo 2012 Napa Valley Merlot, and the 2012 40th Anniversary Caymus Cabernet.

Posted up at the Caymus tasting bar for their standard multi-label tasting

Other than the lovely candied, ripe fruit found in the Caymus Cab (which had just been the star of my family’s Christmas Eve dinner feast in Minnesota) and the off-dry sweetness on the Conundrum white blend (which wasn’t being tasted the day we visited), I had never tasted the other labels before and was delighted by the contrasting variety. The Chardonnay was barrel fermented with hints of banana and coconut on a rounded palate while the Merlot showcased a standout flavor of caramelized plums. Overall, the staff was knowledgeable and the setting was stunning – this is a place that we may want to re-visit next time and schedule a more in-depth appointment to truly explore their labels and library wines.

By now the sun was setting, but it felt like we had slowed down time at various points in the day in order to soak it all in. We headed into downtown Yountville for our final appointment of the day at Stop #6: Ma(i)sonry. They specialize in curated wine flights showcasing small, craft producers who are often too small to have their own tasting room. What that translates to you as a guest? You arrive for an appointment, get matched to a personal wine host/hostess, and receive their expert guidance in picking 3 wines that meet your tasting preferences. We were greeted and seated in their courtyard which doubles as an art gallery, given blankets and a heater which kept us warm as the sun set, and welcomed with a complimentary glass of 2013 Arriviste Rosé from Blackbird Vineyards.

Ma(i)sonry in downtown Yountville offers guided tastings and doubles as an art gallery

They offer 3 tasting tracks based on the pricing of the bottles eligible to be selected: The Classic ($25) featuring wines under $70, the Connoisseur ($35) featuring wines under $120, and the Collector ($45) featuring wines up to $200. The two columns worth of artisan wines had my head spinning with choices, so I decided to rely on our guide, Brooke, for assistance. I told her a bit about the characteristics of my typical go-to type of vino but added that I was willing to be a bit adventurous and try something new. Husband, on the contrary, went with a less-is-more approach saying, "I want 2 huge reds and a white." We also wanted to try 6 different wines between the two of us so she had the opportunity to show us a wider variety of their offerings. The best part? I wasn't familiar with any if the winemakers or labels so it was truly like embarking on a new journey.

If I recall correctly (because let's be honest...note taking at the 6th winery was not as thorough as I would've liked...) we tasted the following vinos: 2012 Chester's Anvil Zinfandel (which ultimately came home with us as our favorite of the night), 2010 Coup de Foudre (ooo la la "Love at First Sight") Cabernet Sauvignon, 2011 Juslyn Vineyards Perry's Blend (cab sauv, merlot, cab franc, & petit verdot), 2012 PharaohMoans Syrah (yeasty, doughy, and soft?), 2013 Tor Kenward Family Wines Torchiana Chardonnay (only 300 cases are produced), and 2009 Tuck Beckstoffer Wines Semper Ellenbach Vineyard Pinot Noir (aged 21 months in 80% new French oak...drool). We felt so cozy in the courtyard and treated with the utmost care from the staff. I would highly recommend this unique guided tasting experience to anyone looking for a way to discover spectacular small-batch wines. We felt like we found a hidden gem in the Valley, and we recently opened our spicy, structured Zinfandel to cheers for a special occasion this spring.

And that....was Day 1. I will be working on documenting Day 2, which was dedicated to Sonoma, but there may be a slight delay to capture other tastings and topics of current time. It's pretty magical to think that somehow all of that winery goodness was packed into one, beautiful day which ultimately ended with what anyone would want after drinking vino all day: PIZZA.

Pizza and bubbles at Redd Wood of Yountville as a finale to Day 1

But not just any pizza...white anchovy pizza from Redd Wood and a bottle of "on the house" bubbly because wine country just knows how to make people happy.