Once upon a time (ok, it was more like two months ago), I wrote
a wine blog. Then life happened and I sort of abandoned it. This hiatus,
however, was completely unintentional, and I’m going to emerge from the silence
one blog post at a time. If you’ve been following along on Twitter or Facebook,
though, you know that things have really taken off since the blog launched. I’ve
been running around this city attending as many wine tastings, meeting as many
wine industry folks, and chatting with as many fellow wine bloggers as much as
possible (read: drinking lots of wine) to really dive into what I can offer to
this project. It’s been fulfilling to hear feedback from readers as it helps me
formulate a plan for producing content going forward on this journey. And
Twitter? Well that’s just been way too much fun because connecting with
wineries, wine shops, distributors, restaurants, and bloggers happens at any
time of the day in a little wine-lover community bubble.
First time I'd ever seen such a clear view crossing the Golden Gate Bridge - where was Karl the Fog? |
I feel like there’s so much to catch up on and so much wine
nerdiness to share, so let’s go back to the end of February when my husband and
I flew to California for our Honeymoon. I’m going to split the stories and
winery visits up into multiple posts so I can hopefully provide the depth and
detail that each place deserves. We worked diligently for a solid two months in
advance to plan our route and appointments emailing with hospitality managers
and hospitality reps. Our picks were strategically selected in an attempt to
soak in a variety of vineyard experiences. For my husband who had never been to
wine country, it was important to include big producers, small producers,
off-the-beaten-path producers, and I-see-these-every-day-in-Kroger producers in
our itinerary. Our plan of attack (yes, that’s how a wine nerd visualizes a
trip to Napa) was to spend one full day in Napa followed by another full day in
Sonoma.
Our "Moon House" in Glen Ellen |
Renting a lovely cottage on VRBO in the quaint town of Glen Ellen about
15 minutes north of Sonoma Square and just down the hillside from Beringer
Vineyards allowed us to start from a centralized location both mornings for departure
into both sides of wine country.
The blooming mustard created a golden hue in the vineyards |
After crossing the Golden Gate Bridge on a crystal clear
day, we arrived to find miles of vineyards popping with the golden yellow hue
of blooming mustard – simply stunning. This
is a spring phenomenon that I’d only read about briefly prior to our trip, and
it felt like such a treat to see it in person. We couldn’t wait to hop in our
rental Prius and head out over the winding roads to the Napa side of the Valley
on our first morning of the adventure. First stop? The famed Bouchon Bakery in
downtown Yountville to properly fuel up for a day of sipping vino.
NO LINE at 8am and enjoyed a life-changing bacon cheddar brown sugar scone on the outdoor patio |
Second stop (aka first winery stop and topic of today’s post):
Venge Vineyards. And ultimately, this first stop won the award for our favorite
stop of the entire trip. Looking back, I honestly think we could’ve purchased
one of every bottle from this vineyard to take home with us…but because it was
our first stop of the trip/day, we couldn’t possibly rationalize boxing up
everything they had to offer – it was the bliss of being our first tasting appointment,
right? We were in a Honeymoon fantasy state of mind, right? It couldn’t
possibly be as outstanding as we thought it was, right? …no, guess what, it
really was that awesome and we should have taken it all home with us).
The callbox upon arrival makes you feel super fancy and special |
This is
a can’t-miss-must-make appointment when you visit Napa next time. It’s located
at the northern tip of the Valley near Calistoga, so it’s also a perfect place
to start your route for the day and then proceed to wind southbound through the
wineries. They specialize in “dry farming”, a technique which relies only on
natural annual rainfall for growing grapes that puts stress on the vines to
ultimately reduce the skin to juice ratio for more intense flavor development.
Winemaker, Kirk Venge, is third-generation in this talented family of viticulturists.
In fact, Kirk’s father, Nils Venge, was the first American winemaker to receive
a perfect “100 points” from Robert Parker for his Groth Reserve Cabernet in
1985. So yes, there’s some serious history of delicious wine in this family and
they are worthy of securing a place on your wine visit itinerary.
Bone Ash Vineyard outside the lovely tasting room which has just one parking spot out front |
We made our appointment for 10am (vacation rules of wine
drinking for breakfast apply?) and after being welcomed through the callbox at
the private gate entrance, we parked our Prius in the one parking spot outside
the tasting room. Our host, Bradley, welcomed us in and told us to make
ourselves “at home” which, well, was easy because the facility actually used to
be a home. The windows next to our table faced the rolling estate vineyards,
and the space felt like we were enjoying the comfort of a living room. Then…he
started pouring the wines and that’s when we knew we had truly arrived in wine
country! The 2013 Maldonado Vineyard Chardonnay kicked things off with an
almost tropical finish followed by the 2013 Pinot Noir from the Bacigalupi
Vineyard (…if you’ve seen the movie Bottle Shock then you’ll appreciate knowing
that this vineyard contains 50% of vines which produced the wine served during
the Judgment of Paris!) which expressed bright, clean, fruit tones. I
personally prefer a bit of Oregon-style, dirty, earthiness in my Pinots, but my
husband was a huge fan of the clean, bright, fruit on the nose and finish on
this one. Their 2013 Scouts Honor Proprietary Red (a blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Charbana, and Syrah) was the epitome of a “pizza pasta wine” with spice
on the nose and a food-friendly smoothness.
The setup feels like school but then they bring wine and you know it's better than school |
Next up on the tasting flight was the 2012 Oakville Estate
Vineyard Merlot…and this is when time stopped for a moment and I heard angels
sing. Bradley got a kick out of my not-so-subtle reaction to the fantastic
plums and roses on the nose, the strong tannins on the palate, and the jammy,
long finish. He had decanted it for an hour prior to serving it to us which
likely enhanced the complexity of this huge vino. My husband had never
experienced a true Napa Merlot like this before, and his face was also
priceless. For all the bad publicity this little varietal has gotten in recent
years, it’s exciting to find incredible expressions of the grape coming to fruition
again and knocking our socks off.
Learning about Cab vs. Merlot is like learning about Sagas vs. Short Stories |
The tasting finale pour was the 2012 Silencieux Cabernet
Sauvignon and again, wow. Just wow. The grapes for this vintage were collected
from six different locations including the Bone Ash Vineyard located right
outside the windows of our table in the tasting room. There was so much spice
layered into the dark fruit with a balanced lacing of vanilla and caramel on
the palate. Unlike the Merlot, however, this Cab lingered for what felt like
hours on the tongue with an almost raisin-like finish. If I recall, I looked up
from my glass with the biggest smile on my face and told Bradley that this was
the best wine I’d tasted in a very long time (and I don’t think this was just
because I’d consumed an entire wine tasting flight before 11am). I was also just
so happy to find two common red varietals being expressed so truly to varietal
standards. In a moment of pure genius, Bradley described the difference between
the Merlot and the Cabernet Sauvignon as the difference between a “short story”
and a “saga” – brilliant! I can almost still taste the saga-like finish of the
Cab as I type this two months later…
Needless to say, we took that Cab home with us as the first
of our “Honeymoon Wines” from the trip. But because taking wine home on the
airplane is not as easy as it used to be, Bradley also hooked us up with a wine
shipping box that could be checked as luggage at the conclusion of our
adventure. We tucked that gorgeous bottle of Cab snuggly in one of the
canisters, packed the case box in the trunk of the Prius, let Bradley take a
photo of us on the porch in front of the Bone Ash Vineyard (had to), and headed
out down the private road for more adventures.
And that is the type of magic that can happen before noon
when you’re in Napa. A successful “Stop 1” at Venge Vineyards. If we would ever
get off the waitlist to be in their Wine Guild which is limited to 1,000
members…I’d be one happy wine nerd. Til then? Well, we wait for the perfect
occasion to pop the cork on that one bottle of the coveted Cab.
Your enthusiasm for Napa is infectious. My partner and I have become devotees of wineries tours in the last few years. We’ve been touring Australia on out last few trips. Our favourite is definitely the Margaret River region because it is so diverse and the cellar doors and farm shops are outstanding. After reading your blog, I am even more enamoured by the idea of sampling the Californian wine industry.
ReplyDeleteFaith Thomas @ The Berry Farm
Oh that's so fantastic that you have found adventures in wine tasting! It truly is incredible to experience the the diversity in wines but also landscape, architecture, and style as you travel to different regions. I hope you are able to explore Napa and Sonoma one day :) and I hope I can travel to Australia! Wine is a wonderful excuse to take a trip and explore. Cheers.
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