Dare to Pair

Something happened last weekend that I’ve wanted to happen for a very long time: I was a “phone-a-friend” for someone in a wine shop. If this starts to become “a thing” that happens to me, I certainly won’t mind. Why? Because I will take any excuse to talk with someone about wine and food. So, in this particular case, my friend was browsing the aisles at a local shop while planning to host a dinner for a group of friends. He had already set his menu, but he wanted some advice from his “wine friend” aka yours truly about what vino might pair best with the food being served. This is probably the one topic for which I will completely ignore the outside world. Pairing wine with food is both a challenge and an indulgence all at the same time, but if you know some basic guidelines (see activity below!) then you have an opportunity to create a memorable experience. So naturally, upon receiving his phone call, I stopped everything that I was doing and settled in to first drool over this menu: Bone-In Brasstown rib eyes from Atlanta's Spotted Trotter, mushrooms cooked in the rendered fat and residual seasoning of the steaks, and sautéed spinach with lemon and butter. I then proceeded to ask him “how adventurous” he and his guests were feeling in terms of a wine, and when I got the green light to go off the beaten path from the standard varietals, I let my imagination run free to all regions of the wine shop. I gave him a few options that would provide the key characteristics to compliment the menu: bold, fruity, and strong tannins to balance the buttery mouthfeel of the marbled steaks with enough acidity to counterbalance the lemony spinach. The winner? An Uruguayan Tannat, which actually may not have been the most interesting choice for enjoying as a solo glass of wine, but in conjunction with the food interactions would result in leveraging all of the flavors in the meal. He also pocketed a South African Pinotage as a plan B – smoky, earthy, with dark fruit and sometimes tropical acidity – which would have acted in a similar way to compliment the umami-centric feast:

The pre-dinner ingredients ready to mingle (phot cred: Franklin)

So how did I know what to suggest when it came to matching and contrasting flavor profiles? (…and no, I’ve never licked “wet stone”, chowed down on “lemongrass”, nor have I eaten every single fruit or smelled every flower.) In fact, as a child, I was the world’s pickiest eater (just ask my mom). But when it comes to distinguishing smells and flavors in wines, it takes practice (read: eat and drink) and a heightened sensory system. I’ve actually found out from many winemakers that they too were picky little eaters which later can translate to an ability to distinguish flavors and aromas, but at that young age creates a sense of overstimulation leading to an aversion to many foods, flavors, and smells. I have yet to read hardcore science about this, but unofficial survey research among my colleagues seems to indicate that there may be a correlation between picky toddlers and winos…

And if you haven’t had the opportunity to explore your taste buds to this extent but you want to learn some guidelines? Well, I’ve got the perfect at-home wine tasting seminar that you can conduct with a few friends, a few wines, and a few grocery items. It’s called “Five 1-Minute Projects That Will Change the Way You Taste Wine” (available on www.thekitchn.com) and here’s what you need (in addition to five minutes of your time):

- One bottle of light, bright white wine (like a cheap Sauv Blanc or Vino Verde)
- One bottle of heavy, tannic red wine (like a mid-price Cab Sauv or a Washington Merlot)
- Two wine glasses per person
- One lemon wedge per person
- ½ teaspoon of sugar per person
- ½ teaspoon of salt per person
- One slice of salami per person (not too spicy!)

The wine pairing tasting exploration ingredients (photo cred: thekitchn.com)

Pour each person about a half glass of each wine using the two glasses. Then, follow the steps to each “Project” found here (http://www.thekitchn.com/five-1minute-projects-that-will-change-the-way-you-taste-wine-tiny-projects-from-the-kitchn-202208) to explore the following aspects of pairing wine with food profiles:

1. Understand acidity in wine by how much your mouth waters after each sip

2. Taste wine with lemon to experience how acidity in food will soften your experience of acidity in a wine (it does not double the acidity but rather the opposite!)

3. Taste wine with sugar to experience how sweetness in food will heighten acidity in the wine (why dessert is best enjoyed with dessert wine…dry wine can make desserts taste sour)

4. Taste wine with salt to experience how saltiness in food will soften both acidity and tannins in the wine (so in this case, salt is NOT a flavor enhancer but rather a flavor softener)

5. Taste wine with salami to experience how fattiness in food (like in my friend’s giant steaks) will soften your experience with tannins in the wine (why marbled steak is great with bold, tannic vinos…aka Argentina wins)

My in-home tasting workshop also included cheese fondue

One of my favorite roles that I had while managing the winery back in Virginia was planning and hosting multi-course wine dinners with our restaurant vendors. The wine pairing world is certainly a bit overwhelming, but it can also become the most magical part of enjoying a bottle of wine because some crazy flavor combinations can be almost just as memorable as the occasion itself during which it was enjoyed. For instance…bacon with Cabernet Franc? Call it breakfast. Fajitas with a slightly off-dry rose? A fiesta on your palate (especially if those fajitas have any trace of jalapenos). I’m always asking my culinary-inclined friends and respected industry winos to open my eyes to new flavor combinations because it’s often the least expected ones that have the biggest impact – which, of course, is the most fun. Next time you go out for sushi, for example, order up a glass of off-dry Riesling (like the Eroica Riesling, Columbia Valley) and enjoy how every flavor you thought you tasted in the wasabi-drenched deliciousness becomes elevated by the bright acidity and sweetness of the wine.

But…the bottom line? You should always eat and drink whatever makes you happy. Because, my friends, that’s ultimately what it’s all about. Salud!

Twenty(ish) Questions with Ted Field

Last week, I had the pleasure of catching up with one of Atlanta's "local wine celebrities" to talk about wine, life, and passion. I'm delighted to introduce Ted Field of Domaine Wine Distributors. He is a wine enthusiast and the man behind the ViniCode labeling system. He and his team are serving retailers and restaurants in the Atlanta metro area by specializing in distribution of quality wines from boutique wineries. Not only does he have a palate for crowd-pleasing vino, but he also has a warm personality that shines through when he is hosting events to showcase his hand-picked portfolio. He believes that wine is an art that facilitates adventure (and I couldn't agree more).

2013 Holiday Wine Party at JavaVino in Atlanta featuring Domaine Wine Distributors (Ted is the cool guy with glasses in the middle)

We've thrown some great events together in the past, and I'm looking forward to planning and coordinating more wine-centric events with Domaine this year. If you are in the Atlanta area, stay tuned for food pairings, varietal seminars, and social events for a chance to clink glasses with Ted in person.

ACR: Is there a special meaning to the name of your distribution company? How'd you decide on the brand?

Ted: Of course the name of the company has to be something you like. But another big consideration is "Does anyone else have that name?" I started going through a list of wine terms writing down the ones I liked the most. My business partner, Andrew Tokas, did the same. Then we sent each other our lists and lo and behold Domaine was on both! AND it happened to be my favorite. Domaine is generally the name of a producer in the Burgundy region of France, much like Chateau is in Bordeaux. But I liked the idea of "my domaine" and luckily, the name was available so we registered it with the Secretary of State.

ACR: Because it's contagious, where does your passion for and interest in wine come from?

Ted: It started about 20 years ago. The very first wine I ever had was (are you sitting down?) Sutter Home White Zinfandel. And I felt so sophisticated as I drank it. 

ACR: "gasp"

Ted: But I knew there was much more out there! Wine lovers had a secret language that I knew nothing about - and I wanted to be a part of that club. As my knowledge of wine grew, so did my passion. It is amazing that no two bottles are the same which means every purchase is somewhat of an adventure. I love that! 

ACR: What's your favorite wine region (or even get more nerdy with specific AVA or even vineyard)?

Ted: I would love to say Burgundy or Bordeaux or Napa or something like that...but those wines are too intellectual for me. The wines of Italy have a certain rustic quality and they are all over the map as far as taste. And besides, Italy feels like home - warm and welcoming. For a bubbly, there is nothing better than L'Antica Quercia Prosecco. 

ACR: Because we agree that wine elicits adventure, to what wine regions have you traveled? Any still out there as a "dream destination"?

Ted: I have been to California, France, and Italy. My background is Art History, and I taught for years before getting into the wine biz. So Italy holds a special place in my heart not only for the wine, but also for the magnificent art. One of my favorite memories is sipping wine in the ruins of Hadrian's Villa outside of Rome. I have no idea what the wine was, it was cheap cheap cheap. But on that day it was...incredible, the world's best wine. As far as dream destinations? It would have to be Spain. I don't know a lot about Spanish wines, but I am learning and they are getting my attention. We work with three Spanish producers - Finca El Refugio, Altolandon and Pardo Tolosa - and their wines are gorgeous. Amazing values! And as luck would have it, I will be in Spain in May for their Fenavin Wine Exposition. I am beyond excited. So one off the bucket list.

ACR: Take me with you? ...ok, so what restaurant have you been to that you'd say has had the most interesting wine list?

Ted: Without a doubt, Barcelona right here in Atlanta. They have one of the most extensive collections of Spanish wines I have ever seen. Frankly, it is a little overwhelming. 

ACR: You are also an inventor, so tell me about Vinicode - what is it? And how and why did you come up with the whole idea?

Ted: I have a pet peeve... I just want to know what is in the bottle of wine that I'm drinking! Just a simple description. How hard is that? I don't want to read the back label and see a story about sunsets and romantic walks along the beach - don't give me something subjective, I just want an objective description. That is the reason Steve Beville and I invented the ViniCode. It was very selfish and was what we wished was on every bottle of wine. Simply said, the ViniCode is a scale which describes the wine based on seven categories: sweetness, acidity, oakiness, fruitiness, earthiness, body and overall complexity. In other words, by looking at the ViniCode, you can easily see if the wine is sweet or dry, full bodied or light, etc. I have learned so much about the style of different wines by using the ViniCode. In fact, for a wine to become part of Domaine's portfolio, a tasting panel must ViniCode and approve the wine.

ACR: Have people ever made fun of you for being a wine nerd? Have you been called a "snob"? Do you even care? 

Ted: I don't mind being a "wine nerd" but I never want to be a "wine snob". Snobs turn people off, and I want people to love wine as much as I do! Here is what I have realized: snobs know just a little bit about wine, enough to make them dangerous. But most wine lovers know that you can never "know wine" because every year, every producer, every spot of land is an opportunity to learn more.

ACR: Very wise, my friend. Have you ever tried to become a sommelier? If not, why not?

Ted: No. There are many people out there who know way more about wine than I do and I am fine with that. I am a teacher. I'm good at it and I love it. I mean honestly, do most people really care about the soil composition of a particular vineyard? I don't. But tell me something useful, like how to pick a wine from a wine list at a restaurant. Don't impress me, excite me! And that's exactly what I hope I do for others.

ACR: Speaking of inspiration, what's your favorite wine-related movie or documentary?

Ted: To be perfectly honest, I didn't love Sideways. But, I thought Bottleshock was wonderful. But my real favorite, and this is going to sound crazy, is a TV show called Cougar Town. In that show, the wine is basically another character. They sit around talking and drinking. I want to live in their cul de sac.

ACR: And if you do, I'm coming over to visit. Do you have a favorite wine and food pairing?

Ted: I love the pairings that surprise me, and two jump right to mind. Years ago when I was just learning about wine, I decided to host a wine pairing dinner...which was way too ambitious for me at the time...but anyway, each couple was to bring one course of a seven course dinner and the perfect pairing wine. For the soup course, a dear friend of mine said she had just read that Sauvignon Blanc and tomato soup were great together. The thought of this pairing made me wince. But it turned out to be fantastic! The acid in the wine and the acid in the soup were great together. The other instance was when Chef Andrew prepared an antipasto platter with peppers, olives, and capers and paired that with a Bardolino - a light red wine from Italy. In my mind this just didn't work. But in my mouth it was spectacular! Brilliant pairing.

ACR: Since we both call it home, how would you describe the "wine scene" here in Atlanta?

Ted: From what I have heard, Atlanta is a great wine city. A booming population of folks wanting to learn about wine. From my own impression, I wish retailers and consumers would not take it so seriously. Let's be honest, if wine were just fancy grape juice I'm not sure we would be talking about it. The fun part is the alcohol!

ACR: Love it! And what's your favorite part about being a wine distributor?

Ted: Let me start by saying that Georgia has what is called a three-tiered system. This means that you can be an importer, a distributor, or a retailer - but only one. When I first became involved in wine as a business it was as an importer. And that is my real passion. I want to do the research, find those wonderful little gems out there, and then bring them back to let someone else sell them. As an importer, I would have to sell my wines to a distributor and most distributors consider wine as just a commodity. For me, it was different. I had met the winemakers, and I considered them friends for whom I had a responsibility to their wines. I only represented about 10 producers and they were all special to me, but they were not being well-served by our distributor. So my business partner Andrew said to me one day, "Why don't we become distributors?" and I left the import company to start Domaine. Although I hate the sales part of it, I love meeting people and sharing my wines.

ACR: Do you have a favorite "value wine"? Like one that is under $20 but drinks with a quality way above it's price?

Ted: Two come to mind right off the bat: Pardo Tolosa Senda de las Rochas - 100% tempranillo, 

incredible value - and D'Angelo Sacravite - 100% Aglianico from Basilicata in Italy, Gorgeous and unusual wine.

ACR: What are some of your favorite words in your wino vocabulary used to describe wine?

Ted: My favorite words are, "But would you buy it again?" because I realize that a retailer can talk you into a wine so you buy it once, but when we are tasting wines to include in our portfolio, I always say, "But would you buy it again?" That to me is the mark of a good wine!

ACR: I'm going to keep that in mind! So if you were going to introduce someone to wine for the first time, what would you serve them and why?

Ted: Easy... Il Falchetto Moscato d'Asti [photo above]. I know everyone is rolling their eyes and saying, "Not moscato." But this is Italy's highest rated moscato according to Gambero Rosso - the Italian wine guide. This wine is indescribable and everyone loves it. A very soft, but classy, entry into the world of wine

ACR: I agree. I "don't do moscato" but that one stole my heart. What's the most interesting type of tasting event you've hosted? Did it have a special theme? 

Ted: Six years ago, I hosted a year's worth of wine tastings in Decatur when we were first test marketing and refining the ViniCode. Every month we tried a different grape while exploring the range of stylistic possibilities it had to offer. I had so much fun at those tastings, and I met some people who are still dear friends of mine to this day. I would love to repeat that same series of tastings now. 

ACR: Well, let's do it! And tell me, what's the "best wine you've ever tasted"...?

Ted: For my birthday a while back, I was given a bottle of 1976 Barolo. But it's not just the wine that made it the best bottle ever, it was everything that came with it: good company, great dinner. A perfect evening underscored by that lovely wine.

ACR: ...and finally...what's your dream for the future of your company? What's the goal in the next 5 years?

Ted: I want Domaine to survive, of course. The wine business is tricky and we still have not figured it all out. But, we always said that we want to be a different kind of distributor. I don't want to sell trends or the latest wine fad, but rather I want to sell bottles that I would buy and drink again and again. I want to be honest and loyal to our producers. When people think of Domaine, I want them to think of Zeni or Finca El Refugio or Altolandon. Domaine means quality, and I always want to remember and be appreciative of the support that our community of friends has given us. We made it one year! And we couldn't have done it without the help of many wonderful friends.

So cheers to that. Thanks to Ted for his time, thoughtfulness, insight, and energy. He certainly has a way of inspiring people to enjoy the full experience that wine can offer, and right now, he has inspired me to go have a glass of wine...for fun, for art, for enjoyment.

When Label Judging Goes Wrong

It was "Bachelor Viewing Night" with my friends which always implies wine, cocktails, new Pinterest recipes, and...wine. But can you blame us? Everyone on the show (which, yes, is a guilty pleasure) is always consuming some sort of adult beverage. I would love to know what wine is being served, but they always blur the labels so all of us are left to our own imaginations. Regardless of what they may be pouring to fuel their relationship drama, my friends and I always use the weekly viewing party as an excuse to try something new - that bottle at your local wine shop that you keep staring at every time you visit but that you never buy because it's A) too expensive for weeknight take-out or B) you don't want to disappoint your dinner guests with what could end up being subpar vino...so you pass it up and opt for the ole standby just like always. Well no, let me now inspire you to create an excuse to take a chance and buy "that wine" (and no, it doesn't have to be for a Bachelor viewing party).

There's no denying that one of the latest trends in the wine industry is conducive to the plethora of "gimmicky", "cheesy", "punny", "eccentric", wine labels out there all competing for catching your eye as you browse the aisles. A blogger for Huffington Post even posted an article in lieu of this phenomenon entitled "The One Wine Trend I Want to Go Away"...which points out that these sassy, flashy marketing ploys tend to fish for female wine drinkers but "most of the wine in these bottles is plonk at worst to very simple and uninteresting but easy to drink at best".  You know the ones we're talking about, because how can you pass up fun labels like Mommy's Little Helper, Mad Housewife, Skinnygirl, or my personal favorite (which is actually an entire vineyard brand in Virginia)...Well Hung:

I know, I know - the labels are light-hearted and fun, and what's wrong with that?  I believe one billion percent that wine should be fun and I'm all for that! And I love that these are the labels helping make more and more people feel comfortable to pull a bottle off the shelf! ...so why am I being a curmudgeon? Well, the wine enthusiast/nerd in me has always been severely disappointed with the quality of the wine inside :( womp womp. But really, it's the worst emotional roller coaster because I'm so excited about the super fun bottle and perfectly matched occasion (usually involving a group of my girlfriends because let's be honest we are being targeted with this trend) but then "pop" the cork and swirl the glass and....pure disappointment of a synthetically sweet overtone, flat structure, and abrupt finish. I'm often left with a mediocre glass of wine in my glass as I simultaneously make my way to the snack table for a second helping of Skinnytaste buffalo chicken dip to compensate and lift my spirits. Sigh.

BUT...this week at Bachelor night with the ladies, I was caught completely off-guard with label judgement. My friend placed the bottle pictured above on the snack table which was cleverly called "The Other" with a seductive lady figure stealing the spotlight. We all enjoyed how well it fit the occasion of watching the drama unfold as one man simultaneously dates many "other" women, but my judgement quickly set in as I prepared to be disappointed. The one potential saving grace, however, was that she said she had purchased it from one of my well-respected local wine shops at which I've enjoyed several top quality tasting nights hosted by a very knowledgable owner....so there was hope. I did the honors, filled our glasses, and went in for the all-important first "swirl n sniff"....and holy heaven. Not even kidding, the nose was so full and fragrant - the kind that I could just sit there and smell all day like a weirdo, but where's the fun in that? First sip was glorious as well as all to follow: juicy blackberry and plums balanced with toasted cedar, and an exciting finish of strong tannins, warm spices, and a burst of black cherries leading to a lasting finish. The blend is anchored by Cabernet Sauvignon, supplemented with 30% Merlot, and smoothed out by Syrah. I knew right at that moment that I'd been, well, enlightened. A good wine really CAN live behind the facade of a silly label.

The moral of this story probably has something to do with not judging a book by it's...err...wine by it's...label. 

A Winemaker and a Star Wars Reference

It's not every day that you get to clink glasses with the winemaker who crafted the wine in your glass...but that's exactly what happened last week at 3 Parks Wine Shop in Atlanta during their weekly tasting hour. In the wine nerd world, winemakers are like celebrities - the masters of their craft. They are chemists, artists, and visionaries who truly determine the destiny of what begins as simply fruit. I'm always honored to have a moment to "talk nerdy" with these folks because they can describe the journey of grape to glass with a passion and energy that's enjoyably contagious.

Last week, Rick Sayre, Vice President and Director of Winemaking for Rodney Strong, led a lucky group of store patrons through a selection of five handcrafted vinos including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and two Pinot clones. The chard had bright overtones with a balanced touch of oak and weight on the palate. The clones...specifically the 667...stole my Pinot-loving heart. Strong aromas of cherry-like fruit with a layer of dirt and earth woven into the finish. And the best part? Being able to sing praises to the man who crafted the wines and say "cheers" to a job well done.

Rick Sayre began his career in 1970 at the age of 19 as assistant winemaker and cellar master at Simi Winery in Sonoma County. He then moved to
Rodney Strong in 1979 and is currently involved in all aspects of winemaking from managing the vineyard to the art of final blending. He was even named "Chardonnay Winemaker of the Year” in 1991 by Wine & Spirits Magazine.

He joked with us at the tasting that Luke Skywalker had Yoda...but he had the world-renowned winemaster, Andre Tchelistcheff, who sparked his passion for the craft and taught him that the littlest details can make the biggest impact.

At the end of the tasting, Rick kindly extended an invitation to visit him this spring at the vineyard while hubby and I vacation there during our honeymoon. Along with a free tasting card and a "friends and family discount" card....that's an offer we can't refuse.